What if I want to move my hands?
Perhaps our most popular question! Then design for movement. If you notice that you need to move your hands when you work/ride/hit/shoot, etc., then put a little soap on your hands and move your hands between all the positions as you mold. Simple.
What if we rotate workers?
Then design for the task, not necessarily the individual. Just like with our glass example, it doesn't really matter who's hand is inside the grip when you design for the task. That means you put grip material in places that will stop any unwanted movement when you relax your grip. Normally the grip material can easily be located around the hand and not necessarily underneath the hand. When the material is placed around the hand and not underneath it, we call it a Negative-SpaceTM grip. This is a popular design for pistol grips and pistol-grip tools.
Negative Space GripsTM place material around hand.
Will the heat from my hand make it moldable?
Not even close. Our PersonaGrip has a softening point (NOT a molding point) above 120 degrees F. A lot of users will use the sun to their advantage and let the grips heat soak in the sun for a certain period of time before using the grip...this makes it a little tackier. As you get used to the grip, you will learn the best operating temperature for your grip.
Will it melt in the car?
If you leave the Grip in direct sunlight in a car with the windows up in the middle of the summer for more than 20 minutes, you will have another molding opportunity on your hands; but you need all these factors COMBINED to get another molding opportunity. We can compound grip materials to be non-remoldable in these extreme conditions on a per-application basis; Call Toll-Free for Details (800) 280-4747. The key ingredient to using the sun to remold your grip is to have it in direct sunlight with the windows up. Even if the windows are open 1/8-1/4" - which is common practice in climates where cars can develop this so-called greenhouse effect -- your chances of getting another molding opportunity are greatly reduced.
That last answer sounded a little sarcastic, don't you think?
Not really, perfect grips evolve over a period of time. Your first mold is simply your starting point. After you use the grip for a while, you'll realize you were only guessing as to how you held the grip. It's only after actually using a molded grip that you discover where you need to make some adjustments. That's where PersonaGrip's remoldability makes it easy to make those adjustments. So using the sun's energy to heat the grip, suddenly makes a lot of sense.
How do you mold a grip?
After it's installed, you heat it, flash cool it, then massage it into shape with a wet hand. Repeat as often as you wish, whenever you want.
What's the best way to heat PersonaGrip?
A heat gun is the best way to heat it. They are quick and can focus the heat on a small spot for fine tuning. You can use a hair dryer, but to save time, make sure it's at least 1500 watts. Boiling water is great, but only if you can dunk the handle. Another neat trick was shown to us by 1991 MPRA World Champion Racquetball Player, Mike Ray. He used the heat from an electric (please, not gas) stove.
Why a wet hand?
The water does two things: It keeps the grip from sticking to your hand, and it cools the surface.
Do you have to mold it?
Absolutely not! PersonaGrip is a fantastically sticky grip just the way it is. In fact, golfers can be well within the rules by taking advantage of its unprecedented tack on an unmolded grip.
Why have a Patented Multi-Layer System?
For OEM Applications: PersonaGrip's composite thermoplastic construction provides a thermally stable core over which the moldable material is bonded. This allows users to mold to any depth without fear of molding through to bare handle. Using only moldable material for the entire grip would not be rigid enough to give the end user control; it would simply be too flimsy. In addition, by controlling the relative depths of the two layers, manufacturers can control where the end user has the most design freedom. To limit moldability and enhance rigidity in a particular area of the grip, the core is made thicker while the moldable material is thinned out.
For Aftermarket Do-It-Yourself Kits: Besides preventing mold-through to the bare handle, a non-moldable inner core layer guarantees isolation from vibration and shock no matter how the top layer is molded. To make the grip thicker, you can plastic weld in a piece as demonstrated in the video. Thinning out is also described in the video.
Won't it be too thick?
Although a 1/8"-thick moldable layer may seem thick, remember you can always mold down to the thin inner layer. It can also provide molding depths of up to 1/2" using techniques described in the video. Regardless, it is important to distinguish between "perceived" and "observed" diameters with PersonaGrips. Perceived diameter is what the user feels and is always the thinnest, smallest, deepest diameter of the imprint.
How deep can you mold it?
Right down to the non-moldable core if you want as shown below in red. However, we've found that the best molds are well rounded and aren't very deep at all. If you have small hands, then you may want to grind away, fillet, or cut the grip down to the non-moldable core to suit your needs. This is shown in the video as well.
Does it come in different sizes?
Since you have total control of the grip's final shape, YOU can determine the grip's size as well as its shape using the techniques described in the supplied "How To" video. The Do-It-Yourself Kits and the Slip-On grips all have an 1/8" (0.125") moldable layer. By knurling up material, depths of up to 1/2" can be achieved. With plastic welding, virtually any depth is possible.
How do you make the grip thinner?
Apply the grip and mold as you normally would. Next, ask yourself if you can get used to the grip the way it is. This is important since it will feel different from what you are used to...just like a new toothbrush does. If you are not sure, you should use it for a while before you begin thinning out the grip. If you prefer small grips, we encourage users to grind down the handle before you apply the grip. It's going to feel different at first, so reserve judgment and give yourself a chance to get used to it.
Now, if you need to go deeper, reheat and remold with a wet hand squeezing harder this time. Let the material rise up between your fingers and around your hand and mold down to the non-moldable core, that's what it's there for. Remove the excess material that knurled up between your fingers with scissors, or by filleting it with a heated knife, or grind it off with a belt sander or wired brush on a bench grinder. You can also use the rounded profile of the brush wheel to deepen the finger grooves. Many folks like the finish left by the wire wheel and use it just for that very reason.
What other surface finishes can you use?
You can transfer the pattern off a rubber jar opener by soaping it down and tamping it on a heated grip. Like the grip on the left, this is a nice surface treatment for gun grips since it looks like the checkered pattern found on many OEM grips. You can burnish the surface with a scouring pad or hand-held wire brush. You can soap-polish the surface. You can imprint a logo using a soaped rubber stamp. You can do any combination of these.
And, remember, you can always back up and try again if you don't like the way it came out.
But how do I add material if I grind away too much?
You can always borrow material from a nearby spot by reheating the entire area and nudging it over, or you can weld in a piece.
How do you weld a piece?
Heat both surfaces until they're shiny (15-30 seconds with a heat gun), and touch the two together. They bond instantly and become one piece. Then you can begin reshaping the grip as if you never took the material off in the first place.
What if I make a mistake?
With PersonaGrip, there is no such thing as a mistake. Like Thomas Edison, you simply found a way how NOT to design the grip. Heat it up, and try again. It's completely foolproof since YOU'RE in control!
What if the grip gets damaged?
Since it is Self-Repairing, all you do is reheat it and remold it, it's like new again. In fact, if the grip gets torn apart, you can reattach the two parts using the welding technique explained in the How-To video. Unfortunately for our competition, this truly amazing feature means you may never have to replace the grip again.
How do you clean PersonaGrip?
Take a nylon bristle nail brush and some soap and give it a good scrub.
Is it affected by chemicals?
Most chemicals found around the shop won't affect the grip; however, if you do run into a situation where the grip is exposed to harsh chemicals for an extended period of time, you can simply cover the grip with a chemical-resistant heat shrink cover.
Sounds too good to be true?
Not really. When you look at the most recent advancements in anything, they usually involve taking a previously fixed parameter and making it adjustable. In cars, we now have variable valve timing and induction. In cameras, fixed length telephoto lenses become adjustable zoom lenses, and so on.
At PersonaGrip we make the critical human-machine interface adjustable. We believe you can do a better job of determining what's best for you rather than some factory on the other side of the globe.
| Home || Applications | Prototyping | Steering Wheel Conversions | Design Tips |
| Scientific Proof | Order Form | FAQs - Answers | History | Contact Us |
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What if I want to move my hands?Perhaps our most popular question! Then design for movement. If you notice that you need to move your hands when you work/ride/hit/shoot, etc., then put a little soap on your hands and move your hands between all the positions as you mold. Simple.
-
What if we rotate workers?
Then design for the task, not necessarily the individual. Just like with our glass example, it doesn't really matter who's hand is inside the grip when you design for the task. That means you put grip material in places that will stop any unwanted movement when you relax your grip. Normally the grip material can easily be located around the hand and not necessarily underneath the hand. When the material is placed around the hand and not underneath it, we call it a Negative-SpaceTM grip. This is a popular design for pistol grips and pistol-grip tools.
Negative Space GripsTM place material around hand.
Will the heat from my hand make it moldable?Not even close. Our PersonaGrip has a softening point (NOT a molding point) above 120 degrees F. A lot of users will use the sun to their advantage and let the grips heat soak in the sun for a certain period of time before using the grip...this makes it a little tackier. As you get used to the grip, you will learn the best operating temperature for your grip.
Will it melt in the car?
If you leave the Grip in direct sunlight in a car with the windows up in the middle of the summer for more than 20 minutes, you will have another molding opportunity on your hands; but you need all these factors COMBINED to get another molding opportunity. We can compound grip materials to be non-remoldable in these extreme conditions on a per-application basis; Call Toll-Free for Details (800) 280-4747. The key ingredient to using the sun to remold your grip is to have it in direct sunlight with the windows up. Even if the windows are open 1/8-1/4" - which is common practice in climates where cars can develop this so-called greenhouse effect -- your chances of getting another molding opportunity are greatly reduced.
That last answer sounded a little sarcastic, don't you think?
Not really, perfect grips evolve over a period of time. Your first mold is simply your starting point. After you use the grip for a while, you'll realize you were only guessing as to how you held the grip. It's only after actually using a molded grip that you discover where you need to make some adjustments. That's where PersonaGrip's remoldability makes it easy to make those adjustments. So using the sun's energy to heat the grip, suddenly makes a lot of sense.
How do you mold a grip?
After it's installed, you heat it, flash cool it, then massage it into shape with a wet hand. Repeat as often as you wish, whenever you want.
What's the best way to heat PersonaGrip?
A heat gun is the best way to heat it. They are quick and can focus the heat on a small spot for fine tuning. You can use a hair dryer, but to save time, make sure it's at least 1500 watts. Boiling water is great, but only if you can dunk the handle. Another neat trick was shown to us by 1991 MPRA World Champion Racquetball Player, Mike Ray. He used the heat from an electric (please, not gas) stove.
Why a wet hand?
The water does two things: It keeps the grip from sticking to your hand, and it cools the surface.
Do you have to mold it?Absolutely not! PersonaGrip is a fantastically sticky grip just the way it is. In fact, golfers can be well within the rules by taking advantage of its unprecedented tack on an unmolded grip.
Why have a Patented Multi-Layer System?For OEM Applications: PersonaGrip's composite thermoplastic construction provides a thermally stable core over which the moldable material is bonded. This allows users to mold to any depth without fear of molding through to bare handle. Using only moldable material for the entire grip would not be rigid enough to give the end user control; it would simply be too flimsy. In addition, by controlling the relative depths of the two layers, manufacturers can control where the end user has the most design freedom. To limit moldability and enhance rigidity in a particular area of the grip, the core is made thicker while the moldable material is thinned out.
For Aftermarket Do-It-Yourself Kits: Besides preventing mold-through to the bare handle, a non-moldable inner core layer guarantees isolation from vibration and shock no matter how the top layer is molded. To make the grip thicker, you can plastic weld in a piece as demonstrated in the video. Thinning out is also described in the video.
Won't it be too thick?Although a 1/8"-thick moldable layer may seem thick, remember you can always mold down to the thin inner layer. It can also provide molding depths of up to 1/2" using techniques described in the video. Regardless, it is important to distinguish between "perceived" and "observed" diameters with PersonaGrips. Perceived diameter is what the user feels and is always the thinnest, smallest, deepest diameter of the imprint.
How deep can you mold it?
Right down to the non-moldable core if you want as shown below in red. However, we've found that the best molds are well rounded and aren't very deep at all. If you have small hands, then you may want to grind away, fillet, or cut the grip down to the non-moldable core to suit your needs. This is shown in the video as well.
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Since you have total control of the grip's final shape, YOU can determine the grip's size as well as its shape using the techniques described in the supplied "How To" video. The Do-It-Yourself Kits and the Slip-On grips all have an 1/8" (0.125") moldable layer. By knurling up material, depths of up to 1/2" can be achieved. With plastic welding, virtually any depth is possible. |
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|
|
|
|
|
You can transfer the pattern off a rubber jar opener by soaping it down and tamping it on a heated grip. Like the grip on the left, this is a nice surface treatment for gun grips since it looks like the checkered pattern found on many OEM grips. You can burnish the surface with a scouring pad or hand-held wire brush. You can soap-polish the surface. You can imprint a logo using a soaped rubber stamp. You can do any combination of these.
And, remember, you can always back up and try again if you don't like the way it came out. |
But how do I add material if I grind away too much?You can always borrow material from a nearby spot by reheating the entire area and nudging it over, or you can weld in a piece.
How do you weld a piece?
Heat both surfaces until they're shiny (15-30 seconds with a heat gun), and touch the two together. They bond instantly and become one piece. Then you can begin reshaping the grip as if you never took the material off in the first place.
What if I make a mistake?
With PersonaGrip, there is no such thing as a mistake. Like Thomas Edison, you simply found a way how NOT to design the grip. Heat it up, and try again. It's completely foolproof since YOU'RE in control!
What if the grip gets damaged?
Since it is Self-Repairing, all you do is reheat it and remold it, it's like new again. In fact, if the grip gets torn apart, you can reattach the two parts using the welding technique explained in the How-To video. Unfortunately for our competition, this truly amazing feature means you may never have to replace the grip again.
How do you clean PersonaGrip?
Take a nylon bristle nail brush and some soap and give it a good scrub.
Is it affected by chemicals?
Most chemicals found around the shop won't affect the grip; however, if you do run into a situation where the grip is exposed to harsh chemicals for an extended period of time, you can simply cover the grip with a chemical-resistant heat shrink cover.
Sounds too good to be true?Not really. When you look at the most recent advancements in anything, they usually involve taking a previously fixed parameter and making it adjustable. In cars, we now have variable valve timing and induction. In cameras, fixed length telephoto lenses become adjustable zoom lenses, and so on.
At PersonaGrip we make the critical human-machine interface adjustable. We believe you can do a better job of determining what's best for you rather than some factory on the other side of the globe.
| Home || Applications | Prototyping | Steering Wheel Conversions | Design Tips |
| Scientific Proof | Order Form | FAQs - Answers | History | Contact Us |